~f.a.q.~ 09/11/09
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Strap Uses -
18th Century Strap Uses -
Modern Day
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Frequently Asked
Questions!
Q: How long does it take to make a strap? A: This is not always an easy question to answer, as it depends upon which item you are talking about. Regular 30" legties may only take 3 hours from planning, to set-up to the weaving. Wide brocaded or cardwoven sashes may take several weeks of work. Cardwoven or brocaded straps take much more thought and planning than say a simple 2 or 3 color straightwoven strap. On average a strap may take an estimation of 4-6 hours of actual work-time, not including much time to sit and plan out the design. More intricate designs picked out of the warp to create some of the reproduction patterns or lettered straps may take a bit longer. |
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Q:
Where
do you get your pattern ideas?
A: As you can plainly see from this website, my color & pattern combinations are virtually endless. When weaving, I have closely followed a few patterns I have been lucky enough to find from originals. To create more choices in design, I branched out into combining several original designs into one strap to create my own pattern; which includes checks, arrows, diamonds, chevrons, diagonal or zigzag lines, and "railroad ties". Nature has also played a large part in my own personal design methods for either colors or patterns in a strap. In one instance I was standing out in my flower garden by a pond one beautiful fall day a few years back; and felt something across my foot. I looked down to see a Garter Snake (who lived in the rocks by our pond) crawling slowly across my foot, completely ignoring me. I was awed by his pretty pattern and earthy colors of brown black and gold; and studied him until he disappeared. I was so inspired by that little garter snake that I set about immediately planning & weaving a strap duplicating his pattern. Mother nature is an art-form herself; when I can, I love to experiment with trying to capture a bit of her in my weaving. |
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Q:
How
long have you been weaving?
A: I have been traveling to 18th century rendezvous since 1982, when, as the saying goes, I was knee-high to a grasshopper. The rendezvous has been such a special part of my life, and so many special people who I have met over the years I consider my family. Most everyone I know has very special talents for at least one form of 18th century art or another, whether it be making horns, bags, knives, rifles, or all of the above. Growing up, I wanted to learn a craft of my own. A friend decided to teach me the art of weaving on an inkle loom for my 13th birthday. Well the craft stuck and I've been weaving ever since, as well as teaching myself new methods oh, about every year to keep things interesting. The gift of knowledge is by far one of the greatest gifts that can be given to another. |
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Q:
What type of loom/s do you use to weave your straps & sashes?
A: The loom I most often use is called an "Inkle" loom, which is German for the word "small". These are small tabletop looms which are easy to work on and carry around. However, with the heavy amount of wear and tear on these looms that I give daily, and their inability to weave anything wider than 2.5" and no longer than about 95"; my father and uncle set about building me a very large customized floor model "inkle" loom to enable me to work on wider sashes or a setup of several straps in a row. I have gone through many, many different types of looms, which would probably stand up to normal wear and tear, but I find it much easier for me in the long-run to have my looms custom designed & made for me, since I can put an incredible amount of tension & use to a loom. |
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Q:
What
types of materials do you weave with?
A: Most commonly I weave in an 8/4 cotton carpet warp material; as it is easy to find, comes in so many colors, and is relatively inexpensive to use. It is also strong and durable. I do, once in awhile, weave in linen material. I love to use it, as back in the day it was used much the way we use cotton now. However it is a little bit harder to find, and the material can be quite pricey, some of it upwards of $50-$60 per spool. It certainly does make for some nice straps though! Wool is another material that I will use, but not generally too often for similar reasons as the linen. I have also found a raw silk material which is hard to find, but it makes an incredible strap that looks old & weathered, and is very durable for rifles. Another form of heavy, durable cotton material suited for rifles is called mop cotton. It comes in basic colors, and makes great heavy sashes & straps. I do not use any material which is not historically accurate for our time period - unless it is specified as such on this website, like some of my woven scarves woven for modern use. |
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Q:
What
is the best way of attaching a strap to a powder horn?
A: This can be a little difficult to answer as there is no "one way" to attach a strap to a horn. I have seen many different methods of attachments, so I believe it is up to the wearer do decide what works best for them. One way is simply to use long braided fringes of a strap to tie to the horn. This method can be used for awhile and easily be changed later if desired. Many times leather attachments may be sewn to the strap itself, either at the end of the strap leaving no fringe, or a few inches above the end of the strap leaving the fringe long and hanging. The leather may be cut into various shapes (weeping heart, diamond, circular, oval or oblong) and left with a long leather tab or tail hanging down. This may be looped and sewn around the horn, or cut through the center leaving 2 tails to tie to the horn itself. For a few pictures see my leather attachments page. Please note that I do not do the leather sewing (not enough time in the day!) but there are contact links you may follow to a few people who have done great work for me in the past. |
Canteens 
Bags 